Tune or Replace?

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Good idea with the ratchet strap but……..Maybe a better, safer method with the ratchet strap would be to hook into the fork top & the link. If the hook won’t fit the link, the strap itself should fit, then hook the strap itself

It’s probably just me, but anything that reduces the likelihood of an accident is best

[LambrettaMarky]

Good idea with the ratchet strap but……..Maybe a better, safer method with the ratchet strap would be to hook into the fork top & the link. If the hook won’t fit the link, the strap itself should fit, then hook the strap itself

It’s probably just me, but anything that reduces the likelihood of an accident is best

Yep, I was careful that the spanner was settled in position prior to poking my fingers in there to get the rubber dampers out. As soon as I got the damper out I released the strap/spanner - carefully!

[Storkfoot]

I am interested in whether the 9mm bearings make a positive difference to the actuator. I never thought of that when I rebuilt the ones I did, one of which had quite a weak spring.

This may be of use to you, Mark:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12767&hilit=Actuator

Vegansydney was a great help.

[LambrettaMarky]

I am interested in whether the 9mm bearings make a positive difference to the actuator. I never thought of that when I rebuilt the ones I did, one of which had quite a weak spring.

This may be of use to you, Mark:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=12767&hilit=Actuator

Vegansydney was a great help.

Very interesting. I'll see how this all works brake wise once reassembled and ridden before going hydraulic. I'd like to keep it looking OE if possible, but I would like to be able to stop!

I've ordered more than I need Paul, PM me your address and I'll post you 4 of them (just in case you drop 1.....) when they arrive.

Advice is to just open the mechanism up carefully with a lever and do one at a time.

[Storkfoot]

Thanks, Mark. I may be interested if you manage to replace the three ball bearings without doing yourself a serious injury

[dickie]

Larger ball-bearings will only increase the preload on the actuator spring. This will help the lever to return after operation but won't increase the pad movement or force.

The biggest issue with remade actuators is the shape of the dimples; concave rather than the sharper 'V' shape of the originals. The original shape means the pads not only contact the disc more quickly but once in contact, the force applied increases faster per lever force.

Sadly, I know the problem but don't have a solution.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Larger ball-bearings will only increase the preload on the actuator spring. This will help the lever to return after operation but won't increase the pad movement or force.

Hmmm. Actually, the bigger balls will give greater movement for the same angle of lever movement. That’s not to say I have any experience or knowledge as to whether the modification is worthwhile

[coaster]

Hmmm. Actually, the bigger balls will give greater movement for the same angle of lever movement. That’s not to say I have any experience or knowledge as to whether the modification is worthwhile

I was thinking the same as in larger wheels ride pot holes easier

[dickie]

I did try this a couple of years ago and it made no difference. Then I sat back and wondered why. It's pretty obvious when you think about it, that the movement rate is only affected by the angle of the 'cups' that they sit in. If you move those surfaces apart before you move them, it doesn't change the rate, only the starting point. This is nearly the same as adjusting the static pad.

I wasn't completely convinced so I modelled it in autocad to prove it to myself. When I get to work later I'll do it again and post the results on here.

I know it's intuitively correct, but in reality it does nothing.

[LambrettaMarky]

Interesting. The increased diameter ball to 9mm from 8mm will position the starting point of the pad 1mm nearer the disc in relation to the actuator being in the same position courtesy of the circlip retention?

By doing this the point of contact where the brake/disc first touch is nearer to the starting point of the ramp/dimple. I haven't studied the ramp/dimple angle in my unit, so it is really guess work that the actuator will have more movement or throw of the pad itself in the initial part of it's movement from rest.

I'll let you know what I find, but for sure if the ramp/dimple is more a flat bell than a V it should be beneficial (I hope..)

[LambrettaMarky]

Reassembled the forks yesterday with the Cam Lam kit and for sure the new springs are much more forgiving than the rock solid Indian ones. The bump stops also just a nicer rubber material too.

One complaint I had with the GP when riding it was the lack of compliance in the suspension & especially the front that would jar over road bumps rather than soak them up.

Definitely progress.

[LambrettaMarky]

9mm balls in. Piece of cake with a 300mm tyre lever & one at a time.

Kickstart side:
protech4 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

Nearside:
protech1 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

protech3 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

protech2 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

[LambrettaMarky]

I may fine tune the spring washer/washer & spindle nut clearance, but for sure it fits fine now, with a bit of fettling.

[Adam_Winstone]

Getting any miles on this yet Marky? I want to know if it is putting a smile on your face yet

[LambrettaMarky]

Getting any miles on this yet Marky? I want to know if it is putting a smile on your face yet

Not yet Adam. Still faffing & fettling.

[dickie]

I did try this a couple of years ago and it made no difference. Then I sat back and wondered why. It's pretty obvious when you think about it, that the movement rate is only affected by the angle of the 'cups' that they sit in. If you move those surfaces apart before you move them, it doesn't change the rate, only the starting point. This is nearly the same as adjusting the static pad.

I wasn't completely convinced so I modelled it in autocad to prove it to myself. When I get to work later I'll do it again and post the results on here.

I know it's intuitively correct, but in reality it does nothing.

I stand corrected. It does make a difference, but a small one. Also, you have to bear (get it?) in mind that increased travel is at the expense of reduced force for the same pull at the lever. Regardless, bigger balls make a slight difference. 1mm increase gives about 0.02mm greater piston travel for the 3mm which I arbitrarily used as the distance the ball would roll across the dimple.

[LambrettaMarky]

Interesting stuff - thx.

I guess the real test will be how it feels & operates on the road compared to the 8mm balls.. I'll let you know in Spring!!

[LambrettaMarky]

13th Feb 7 by KTM Marky, on FlickrN

An update now having had a 15 mile cold ride out yesterday:

The 30mm carb' & silencer have made a big improvement. I can now sit @ >60mph on the flat with a strong pull thought each gear across the rev range & I can feel a slight 'power band' too. I suspect it may hit high 60's with a prevailing wind or slope, however the real plus is that it pulls up hill now which it didn't really do before. The exhaust note is good and the induction too - I like it!

The ProTech dampers & fork service kit have made the front end feel much less rigid & harsh. There is a nasty lump in the road near me riding 50/60mph that shook the scooter badly before and now it's absorbed and is much less violent. The ProTech rear shock I can probably wind the compression down a bit more on the spring, but much much better than the Indian thing on before. I'll change the split rims soon for some tubeless ones with new tyres too - that will make it better again.

I need to fettle the clutch adjustment and straighten the bars as I was on a permanent left turn seeing how I didn't set that on the workbench first!

The brakes.... are better, especially the rear which now works a treat. The front perhaps needs more bedding in so the increase ball diameter I can't comment on yet. Both ends have a new braking surface and pads/shoes so time will tell.

I haven't checked the layshaft seal yet as I want to do a good 50 miles more really then inspect it.

Next will be to bin the rubbish speedo for a SIP jobbie and upgrade the headlight. VAPE ignition system too.

Any suggestions on a suitable seat to make it look a bit 'sportier' as with the tubeless rims I'll ditch the spare?

[Adam_Winstone]

Glad to hear that you're enjoying the liberation of a little more power and extension to over-rev from pipe and carb. Whilst they may not make a huge difference to BHP, the extension of rev range and the way that the power is delivered certainly gives a sportier feel.

It'll be difficult to change to a sportier seat look whilst retaining the rear carrier and rack, simply as the carrier gives the tourer look and that suits the seat that you already have. If you decide to change to a legshield spare wheel carrier then you'll have the option to lose the rear carrier or to change to a smaller carrier that can work with a sportier looking seat.

Whichever way you choose to go, it's nice to see that you're customising the bike to suit your preference, which to me is one of the joys of Lambretta ownership.

Thanks for the update and glad to hear that you're enjoying the changes to date.

Adam

[LambrettaMarky]

Thanks Adam

I was keen to get a standard scooter in the first place, precisely so that I could fettle to my liking whilst learning how they work seeing as I have zero previous knowledge.

I think I prefer the sloping sports style seat and smaller rear rack to this set up I have at the moment.

Will seek advise from Cam Lam..