LCGB Forums

Have an RT195/200 fitted BGM 60/110 crank with a Gori 50 exhaust, trouble is it keeps coming loose anyone else experiencing this, whats the answer, not enough room to fit the tall nuts that you can wire up, was thinking about welding metal to the fixing flange so getting an extra 2 mountings as per the MB/BGM big bore would this be possible, doin my head in

is the manifold flange perfectly flat? or are the fins stopping the manifold sitting flush. I addressed both these problems and never had a gasket blow or manifold loosen again, which used to happen.

Are you using the MB type brass M7 exhaust lock nuts? Shouldn't cause any problems if you are and tighten them once from new.
Failing that a dab of locktite 243 should get it sorted.

Bear in mind that the gori has a fixed sharks fin & was most likely designed on a 58/107 crank.

I’m running a Gori 50 sport ( TS1 header) on my 283 with a longer rod, 62 stroke crank and packer. It’s a bit tight getting it on and special care is need to get a spanner on the nut under the bend but it does all line up. Whilst it is modified to a degree none of the mounting positions have changed. I’ve had it for years and used it on a Rapido previously and never had a problem with it coming loose. I use normal m7 nuts and spring washed rather than brass.

I've got a GP50 exhaust and over the winter I am going to modify it to use a slip joint stub manifold.

Its a chore as the U bend is constantly coming loose, its not a bad fit but it's not perfect and with the vibration etc. its always needing nipping up.

The extra slip joint will mean I get more tolerance on the fit as well, and its easier to whip the pipe off for servicing etc.

chain tensioner tab washer, cut the two round bits off,fit under the nut ,bend the tab, one on the nut side one on to the exhaust flange, as recomended by taffspeed so many years ago. use this method on my Mikec.

Leotech wrote:I've got a GP50 exhaust and over the winter I am going to modify it to use a slip joint stub manifold.

Its a chore as the U bend is constantly coming loose, its not a bad fit but it's not perfect and with the vibration etc. its always needing nipping up.

The extra slip joint will mean I get more tolerance on the fit as well, and its easier to whip the pipe off for servicing etc.

Did you ever do this modification? Interested to see the result

martyn dwane wrote:chain tensioner tab washer, cut the two round bits off,fit under the nut ,bend the tab, one on the nut side one on to the exhaust flange, as recomended by taffspeed so many years ago. use this method on my Mikec.

what a brill idea, next time an exhaust nut gives me grief i know what to do

I eventually modified my GP50 Gori exhaust to use a slip joint manifold off a Franspeed pipe and reduced the first half of the U bend to 42mm, It adds that bit of movement and it's never come loose. Its easier to put on and take off and it also made the power a bit more flexible.


I'd post a photo but I don't know how to.

Ill try and take some later. Changing the front sprocket today.

bike grim wrote:

Leotech wrote:I've got a GP50 exhaust and over the winter I am going to modify it to use a slip joint stub manifold.

Its a chore as the U bend is constantly coming loose, its not a bad fit but it's not perfect and with the vibration etc. its always needing nipping up.

The extra slip joint will mean I get more tolerance on the fit as well, and its easier to whip the pipe off for servicing etc.

Did you ever do this modification? Interested to see the result

I've taken some photos but cant post them. its too complicated.

Eventually worked it out!


Franspeed stub mount conversion on GP50 pipe. First half of the U bend is 42mm.

I use longer studs with a split washer (spring washer),the standard brass nuts(round side towards the washer)and an ordinary nut behind that as a locking nut.I have three scooters and I've done this with all of them and I haven't had one come loose.

Im using an MB 4 bolt flange welded to a DT modified TSR stub and four lock washers with four brass exhaust nuts, never had a problem but i think the trick is to only use/tighten the nuts once.