LCGB Forums

Hi, need abit of advice please, just fitted a 5 plate clutch, problem is when selecting gear, it's stalling, could the clutch cable be to loose? Cheers

It could be . Try putting bike in first gear and pull clutch in and slowly push down slowly on kickstart and see if bike wants to move forward to loose .( don't have engine running ) You can fined out where it starts to work , you can then slowly move clutch lever out until kickstart slips down and does not bite . Then adjust clutch and then try again . Don't over adjust or you will get clutch drag or slip . col

Hi, So you don't want the kick start to bite at all? Thanks

kick start should just push to the floor without turning engine over when clutch is pulled in.

I'll certainly try that, cheers

With the clutch all the way in, against the handlebars, the kickstart should go right to the floor with no resistance. If it engine turns at all then you need to shorten the cable, but you need to have a little slack in the system or you will end up with slip under load.

Are you using a deep sprocket / spider / pressure plate or the standard ones? Some combinations may not work.

Did you check if there was enough separation with the clutch fully compressed when you fitted the new clutch? You should ideally have min 1 mm but more like 1.5 mm when full compressed.

I'm using a MB deep sprocket, but 4plate spider & bell, & I didn't check the gap/

Well been busy, tried & checked everything, even tried the old 4 plate clutch kit & it's still doing the same, there was more give with the clutch lever this time & the cable shortened, I managed at one point to put in gear & set off but it was making weird noise & couldn't get it back into neutral,one thing was noticed I changed the spring on the layshaft, which was quite abit longer & stiffer than the old one, could this cause the engine to stall?

Is the clutch dragging?

if you stick it in gear without the engine running, can you turn the rear wheel by hand?

Hi Robert, I`ll try that tonight, but i`m thinking of stripping down the engine again, as i found out, though don`t if this is the problem? when rebuilding the engine i replaced the Layshaft spring, which was longer than the standard, carbon , me thinking this was an uprated spring, but i`ve just been told there all the same size, would this affect selecting?

robert gilchrist wrote:Hi Robert, I`ll try that tonight, but i`m thinking of stripping down the engine again, as i found out, though don`t if this is the problem? when rebuilding the engine i replaced the Layshaft spring, which was longer than the standard, carbon , me thinking this was an uprated spring, but i`ve just been told there all the same size, would this affect selecting?

The spring would not be your problem....

If the clutch is dragging then you will need to pull the scoot back to stop it moving and that will cause it to stall in worst case.

You could also have an issue with when you rebuilt the gearbox that is stalling the engine, but that would only be an issue when you release the clutch....

If you want a little assistance I could do so on Sunday....

Hi Robert, Thanks for that, I`ll let you know, cheers

Tonight I tried turning the back wheel by hand supported by the engine stand, in gear, With clutch handlebar lever right in,The back wheel could only turn a few inches, so I`ve took the clutch out and checked the parts, The spider, Has the spider got to move independently? from the rear sprocket? as this spider I couldn't turn at all, have over tightened the spider?

Sounds like something deeper in the gearbox.

Quite often what you'll find is that it's hard to turn the box by hand without the sprocket and spider fitted. Then once you tighten the nut on the cluster against the spider it will pull the cluster a fraction towards the clutch and everything will free up. The pressure exerted by the nut is tightening against the shim that rests on the endplate bearing and the top of the cluster against the other side of that bearing.

Without the plates or pressure plate fitted the sprocket should rotate freely round the spider and you should be able to spin the gears relatively easily by hand by rotating the spider.

From advice I looked at the clearance or protruduce (lack of it)of the clutch spider & new sprocket together, it looks like the sprocket needs filed back as stated in stickys, i think when i`ve torque everything up, the spider could not move!

That make sense I certainly saw similar with an MB sprocket and scootrs spider. the spider didn't protrude beyond the sprocket so I found one that did and fitted that.

Any progress?

Hi, yep, all repaired,& replaced parts, kickstart shaft/spring was rubbing off clutch, new selector bush was also replaced