LCGB Forums

Had a mishap with my iron barrel

Will it be usable or need a rebore?

I would say that seeing as the gouge is at the top of the barrel, your rings won't seal that and you will have blow past meaning poor compression.

Cheers Chris.

Rebore old bean, looks practically brand new with the cross hatching and the ports could do being chamfered a bit better

That is a real shame. This is one of those occasions when we wish there was a two-part filler capable of taking the rigours of internal combustion & stay put! As far as I am aware, nothing exists that saves a bore, as there must be loads of TS1 owners that have gone down a similar route...

If you do get the barrel bored, it would be a good idea to tidy the porting @ the very least, by chamfering the edges of the ports, even the inlet.

(The problem comes about when just to 'tidy' the ports, becomes a proper porting job, as is the case with some of the badly cast barrels that are about these days, especially some 175 conversion cylinders)

Has anybody ever tried that WT?
I bet some have thought about it !

A picture of the piston might tell us more?

ULC Soulagent wrote:Rebore old bean, looks practically brand new with the cross hatching and the ports could do being chamfered a bit better

Cheers Shane. Thanks fo the message this morning.

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:That is a real shame. This is one of those occasions when we wish there was a two-part filler capable of taking the rigours of internal combustion & stay put! As far as I am aware, nothing exists that saves a bore, as there must be loads of TS1 owners that have gone down a similar route...

If you do get the barrel bored, it would be a good idea to tidy the porting @ the very least, by chamfering the edges of the ports, even the inlet.

(The problem comes about when just to 'tidy' the ports, becomes a proper porting job, as is the case with some of the badly cast barrels that are about these days, especially some 175 conversion cylinders)

As Chris says. that really would be a saver!

Absolutely! I'm only glad that this is my journey back to standard barrels. My reed block cage came apart on my TS1 coming back from France a couple of years ago and although the piston got demolished, Incredibly the metal stopper travelled to the crank without a mark on the barrel. Transfers maybe? Who knows but after a rendezvous with Toddy at Shipdton 4 Nations I was able to continue my journey back to Belfast.

I have a 225 SIL barrel coming and although it won't be a strict comparison, but I want to see how much they differ.

CHRIS in MARGATE wrote:Has anybody ever tried that WT?
I bet some have thought about it !

Amongst the barrels that have come my way, have been several that have bad scores & continued to run & others with less damage(!) following a blow-up such as piston or rod disintegrating.

If you can understand that, it makes me loath to scrap a 99% good bore simply because of a score, especially when any scores are not the full stroke length &/or not above the exhaust port. That said, the worst places to have any damage is obviously in the area where combustion takes place.

There may be DIY remedies but I couldn't find one when I trawled the Internet. Some people might suggest to try products such as JB Weld, but I have never used it. In most two stroke tuning journals, almost inevitably, there will be some mention of Devcon & I do know of it being used successfully in other areas apart from the bore.

The trouble with Nikasil is that it chips & flakes so easily, as anybody that has ported it will vouch. With that in mind, it has crossed my mind that were an 'up-down' score to be pegged (as we have with the piston ring groove) then that would interrupt what is effectively a channel, causing a dam.

However, as soon as you start going down that route, you'd have to seriously consider the time involved as to whether it is worthwhile. Then you question what material to use & how many 'pegs' to fit, how to make them flush to the bore etc. If it were to be done, the drilling could be from the outside through to the bore, between fins, I suppose.....

Bilko wrote:

I have a 225 SIL barrel coming and although it won't be a strict comparison, but I want to see how much they differ.

Oh Dear! Good Luck with that if it's anything like the SIL barrels that I have had any involvement with. The alloy finned barrels that I have worked are fairly dire, though if you have a lot of time & the correct tooling, they can be made to perform

Bilko wrote:

I have a 225 SIL barrel coming and although it won't be a strict comparison, but I want to see how much they differ.

Oh Dear! Good Luck with that if it's anything like the SIL barrels that I have had any involvement with. The alloy finned barrels that I have worked are fairly dire, though if you have a lot of time & the correct tooling, they can be made to perform

Do you mean the dodgy alloy barrels? I meant the iron SIL barrels.

Bilko wrote:

Bilko wrote:

I have a 225 SIL barrel coming and although it won't be a strict comparison, but I want to see how much they differ.

Oh Dear! Good Luck with that if it's anything like the SIL barrels that I have had any involvement with. The alloy finned barrels that I have worked are fairly dire, though if you have a lot of time & the correct tooling, they can be made to perform

Do you mean the dodgy alloy barrels? I meant the iron SIL barrels.

In particular, I mean the alloy barrels but the cast iron barrels can be bad.

For one thing, as far as I am aware, SIL no longer exists, so any claims of compliance with quality or being 'genuine' should be questioned.

The castings are usually not well produced as far as the port positions go, that is by comparison with OEM barrels. Often, the castings have been chilled, which makes them very hard to tidy up, let alone do some matching or porting.

I hope that what you do receive is good. Fingers crossed

Thanks.