LCGB Forums

Alright Fellas, I'm after some advise from your good selves.
As I've not been too mobile since my crash, my son has been helping rebuild my GP.
Today he has fitted a new hydraulic brake and anti dive.
I don't look OK to Me, but the only thing that's concerning me is the anti dive bar.
As you can see in the pic, that the only way get the bar to fit, was to bolt it up one notch further than the length of the bar.
My son recons it's fine, but I thought I'd check before I take it out when it's rebuilt.

I'm sure others will offer similar, or better advice, but the verticalish position of the bracket on the fork-leg determines the angle of the tie-rod hence the amount of dive/anti-dive.

That bracket looks to my eyes as if it will fit with the tie-rod connection in front of the fork leg, rather than behind as you have it now. The tie-rod should then be refitted behind the caliper rather than as you have it.

This might then give more scope for adjusting positioning to fine tune....

We are all only on here to help (& try to remain good natured....)

However, if you are unsure of mine, or anybody's advice, you should check with the manufacturer, especially with a safety critical item such as this.

Thanks for that, when I can get down to tinker with it myself, I will try a few different angles as you describe.
It doesn't look right to me, but without getting my own hands dirty, I won't be able to change anything.
It won't be going out till I'm happy with it.

Cheers

Please forgive me if I am wrong I thought the tie bar was to be as horizontal as possible, maybe turning the bracket on the fork leg would help achieve this.
I seem to think I have seen something on a CASA disk build.
Cheers Shane.

A common change was to replace the link bar with a rose joint tie that had adjustment

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-PAIR-OF-M8- ... SwGotWjBjw

Does this help?

http://www.bing.com/images/search?view= ... ajaxhist=0

I would say ask the supplier as from your picture with the anti dive bar as it is you wouldn't be able to fit secondary dampers (if fitted) back on

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote: The tie-rod should then be refitted behind the caliper rather than as you have it.

Not if you use the existing tie bar as the caliper mounting plate is threaded and is in effect the "nut". Same goes for the clamp.

I sell these kit but I don't like those tie bars [basically a flat bar with a rubber washer] so change them for one that uses rose joints as Gaz has pictured. Also use longer bolts so I can fit a binx nut on the end for safety, [belt & braces].

corrado wrote:

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote: The tie-rod should then be refitted behind the caliper rather than as you have it.

Not if you use the existing tie bar as the caliper mounting plate is threaded and is in effect the "nut". Same goes for the clamp.

I sell these kit but I don't like those tie bars [basically a flat bar with a rubber washer] so change them for one that uses rose joints as Gaz has pictured. Also use longer bolts so I can fit a binx nut on the end for safety, [belt & braces].

I've not come across binx nuts before do you use them instead of nylock because presumably they are thinner?

Cheers guys, ive ordered one of those Rose bars and will give that a go.

yours looks wrong to me, whats that extra bit of plate behind the plate whet the caliper fits on ?? , here is a pic of how it should be fitted

http://www.lambretta.co.uk/shop/anti-dive-p-7485.html

Also the clamp in Gaz Powell's pic is the other way up to yours.

/\/\/\/\ I noticed that, that's why I sent the picture to clarify .........but it was just a lift from Beedseed site however the Camb Lam picture supports that orientation.

a-teamlambretta wrote:yours looks wrong to me, whats that extra bit of plate behind the plate whet the caliper fits on ?? ,

Yes that perplexed me too? Looks like the old caliper mounting [ie none anti dive] plate, which needed to be removed.

The sharks fin clamp could go either way on the fork leg but with the fin facing down it'll limit the positioning, I'd turn it around.

Binx nuts fitted as I said "belt and braces" but it's all a bit tight for space on the tyre side and Binx nuts are slimmer than any other locking nut.

Just a thought wouldn't the Binx nuts be ideal for the exhaust flange .

corrado wrote:

a-teamlambretta wrote:yours looks wrong to me, whats that extra bit of plate behind the plate whet the caliper fits on ?? ,

Thinking about it, if you have left the original caliper plate in situ then it will be locked into the fork link lug. If you've bolted the caliper on through both plates then the front end will be solid with no movement. With none anti dive you lock the plate [via the groove on the plate] to the fork link stub, but on an anti dive set up you bolt the caliper mounting plate to the fork leg via the tie bar. Fixed at both ends and the whole front end has no give. That's probably why you've had to use one of the other holes on the original tie bar.

Phil D wrote:Just a thought wouldn't the Binx nuts be ideal for the exhaust flange .

Probably as it all gets a bit tight at the back of the flange close to the cylinder. I'm not sure of the effective life span of the locking mechanism of the Binx nut but I'm sure it'll be longer than the nylon of a nylock.

Phil D wrote:Just a thought wouldn't the Binx nuts be ideal for the exhaust flange .

I wouldn't use them on the exhaust studs though as they may work too well and draw out the stud when removing.

Alright chaps, update on things.
Now I have to Tread carefully here as I'm really grateful to my son for helping me try and get the scoot back on the road.

Any ways, it's off for now till I can get down and see what goes where.
All the comments are really appreciated, nowt like a third pair of eyes.

Cheers All...

Can you update us on the secondary caliper mounting place? If that's what it is.