LCGB Forums

Can anyone tell me the type of make of this flywheel its on a li125

Indian electronic with the rivets replaced with bolts and nuts. I do this to my flywheels using high tensile button head bolts loctited in with nylok nuts

Thanks for your help !

It is not best practise to run the flywheel without the domed cover over the centre of the flywheel. Not only does this do a very good job at keeping everything clean, the domed cover plays an important role in drawing cool air into the fins, before distribution over the cylinder and head.

Of course, this maybe more difficult to fit, due to the bolted construction of this flywheel.

Yes I'm going to look in to getting a cover for the flywheel ,trust me to have a flywheel which is different !! I'm going to eventually use the wassel dc conversion so might replace the flywheel altogether.

Patricks3179 wrote:Yes I'm going to look in to getting a cover for the flywheel ,trust me to have a flywheel which is different !! I'm going to eventually use the wassel dc conversion so might replace the flywheel altogether.

turn the bolts so the nyloc nuts are on the inside, as long as bolts are not too long all should be good.
i have a flywheel with caphead allen head screws & nylocs on the inside

Norrie Bodge wrote:

Patricks3179 wrote:Yes I'm going to look in to getting a cover for the flywheel ,trust me to have a flywheel which is different !! I'm going to eventually use the wassel dc conversion so might replace the flywheel altogether.

turn the bolts so the nyloc nuts are on the inside, as long as bolts are not too long all should be good.
i have a flywheel with caphead allen head screws & nylocs on the inside

Good idea but you could go a step further and replace them with button headed screws; the heads on those are barely any bigger than rivet heads.

I have a 12v flywheel with bolts to replace the rivets and the nyloc nuts fasten on the outside of the flywheel,as in the picture,the dust cover fits ok and doesn't come into contact with the nuts.

......better still to tap the flange holes of the flywheel centre (M6 in the case of Innocenti 'cam' type centres) & use socket head button heads with Loctite after ensuring all surfaces are prepared appropriately. Who needs nuts?

Also having problem removing the flywheel nut ive been using flywheel tool and been turning clockwise but it won't budge ! Any help much appreciated

What tool have you been using?

The nut is a left hand thread, you remove it with a socket first then screw in the extractor which is used to 'break' the flywheel off the taper.

Hi thanks for the reply. Yes I've tried doing what you said but it still won't budge ive tried wd40 on the nut but no success yet.

It should be good and tight.

Is the engine out? If so, lay on the side with flywheel facing up and fill the recess with plusgas or wd40 and leave it for a day or so. Diesel might also work. If that fails heat the nut quickly with a torch and be careful not to burn the stator.

Make sure you're using a decent holding tool and well fitting socket, even better if the top end is off use a conrod holder and a long breaker bar on the socket.

If all else fails you'll need to use a narrow chisel to split the nut, but that's a last resort.

If engine is out, stick it in the car and take to any fast fit/garage.
£5 in someones pocket and 20 seconds with an air gun and nut will be off.
Don't forget to tell them left hand thread, lefty loosy, righty tighty wont work with this.

Ha ha yeah lefty Lucy righty tighty Classic I always remember it this way ! Yeah the flywheel tool holder is a MB one so no issues there it fits well . The engine is still in the bike so I'm going to let it soak a few days then borrow a air wrench off a mate . Guys thanks for your help !!!!