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Think I buckled my wheel when I had a rear blow out? Thing is they looked fine when I replaced the tube & tyre which I then put on the front wheel due to me ordering the correctly positioned valve as the old front tyre had the 90 deg one not the 45. Anyroad I rode to Woolacombe and back but the scooter handled really strangely like I had an inexperienced passenger on the back & I had to fight with it all the way home.
Had a look today and simply held a pointy stick next to the rim. On the right hand side slight deviation and the left quite a lot.

First question is - Would a rear puncture (I had approx 15kg of luggage also ) be enough to buckle the wheel?
Second question - Can it be straightened?
Third - What do I buy to replace it? Original second hand innocenti, or Scootopia, BGM etc?

As always thanks for everyones help

In my experience, spinning the wheel and watching with the naked eye tells you something is amiss. Do just watch for poor tyre fitment when you are spinning it too. If you don’t use tyre paste when fitting the rim, the tyre may not slide all the way to the rim edge.

Personally, I wouldn’t go for an old Innocenti rim however well they were made originally. They are old. Other than that, I’d avoid Indian and FA Italia. Oh, and make sure you don’t use a rim that is rusty inside. Rust particles rubbing against a rubber inner tube is not good.

I can’t comment on the effects of blow out. Thankfully, I have no experience.

Thanks Storkfoot, Going to have a proper look today so will post more details.........

So i stripped the wheel down then put everything back with just the rim and ran a clock on the wheel edge and centre but tbh it looked ok?
Took disc apart and found 15 thou warp in disc but would this cause problems?
Gave it some thought and wondered if the spindle nut wasn't tightened properly whether the hub could wander up and down the spindle?
I found a new disc in a box of parts but its drilled. Would this be compatible with old type disc pads or would i need sintered?
So may try new disc.

It sounds like you have unrelated issues here. Two hub halves that aren’t tightened properly will cause a very uncertain ride. A warped disc will cause poor braking, binding of the pads onto the disc and screeching noises.

A drilled disc should be fine with normal pads but if the pads are really old, I’d change them anyway.

What weight is the tyre rated for? Did the weight distribution alter because of the blowout? You changed the position of the tyres,does the now steering axle tyre have a slightly squarer profile as sometimes seen on well used driven axle tyres?

Is the frame straight?Not cracked or broken,as has happened to a couple of people in recent years.Not caused by blowouts afaik still worth checking out.

Took another look today. Found another disc (undrilled) and checked it with only 3 thou run out so went with that. Put the halves together but the the disc did not seat on the boss maybe because the anti rattle circlip made the fit too tight so perhaps that's been the problem? If the disc doesn't completely butt up to the boss then this allows movement between the two halves? So should I tighten the spindle really tight to pull the two halves together then back it off when the disc is seated up to the boss with no gaps? It cannot damage the bearings as there's a spacer tube right

Littlewheels wrote:Took another look today. Found another disc (undrilled) and checked it with only 3 thou run out so went with that. Put the halves together but the the disc did not seat on the boss maybe because the anti rattle circlip made the fit too tight so perhaps that's been the problem? If the disc doesn't completely butt up to the boss then this allows movement between the two halves? So should I tighten the spindle really tight to pull the two halves together then back it off when the disc is seated up to the boss with no gaps? It cannot damage the bearings as there's a spacer tube right

Have you greased the three pins to allow the disc to move?

Irrespective of whether you have, I have always just removed the circlip on the disc. In my experience, the only downside to doing this is that you can hear the disc rattling when you push the scooter. That disappears as soon as you move off under power.

There’s no need to tighten the two halves up ridiculously tightly.

Whilst you are doing all this, if your brake isn’t great, I’d recommend considering doing the reverse pull conversion.

fully freely moving sintered disc pads are a 100% must!!!!!!!!!!!!!