LCGB Forums

I have a tidy solution for Sat-Nav's via a ball mount using bracket attached to the right hand handlebar which I can share pictures and dimensions with if anyone is interested in making one themselves

What I'm after is a neat solution for power to the handlebars
Currently I use a large battery carried in the pocket of a spare wheel cover

As I'm on a week's visit to France next year I need a better solution than a battery

I'm converting my AC scooter ignition to vape so I'm thinking a vape regular with a DC output
I'm struggling to think of a good solution with no inner legshield tool box to get the DC supply to the handle bars

Has anyone worked this out and be willing to share?
I'm not keen on drilling cable exit holes in an original paint headset

Interested to see what people come back with.

I’ve not done so in the sense of providing a DC power outlet, but one ‘reversible’ solution would be to fit a small outlet socket in place of the OEM steering lock. One race scooter I built had an electric fan - the intention being to help cool the engine when waiting for long periods in the holding area - & a very neat illuminated toggle switch fitted there nicely

Thanks. Hadn’t thought of that

I was kinda resigning myself to a hole in the headset

I’ll wait to see what other solutions there maybe.

I use a TomTom with a dock -mounted using the two switch screws on the handlebars

Standard electronic AC ignition & Tambs Inteli Convertor which is mounted on the old regulator plate on the frame / runner arm

The power for the the dock is wired directly to the DC output of the Inteli convertor. The 12v cable runs along the frame tube, under the legshields and then up the back of the head tube of the frame and pops out under the Chrome ring.

I used some heat shrink cable in the area where it emerges from the legshields to prevent any rubbing damage.

If I am using a sat nav - then its a 10 second job to couple the power to the dock up. Below is a link to the dock & cable which gives an visual to the above

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TomTom-Rider-M ... d_source=1

Thanks

I also use this tomtom dock, but wired to a battery
it's a decent bit of kit

I like the heat shrink tip for additional protection of the cable as it exits from behind the legshields

Hi Andy
I run new casa Ducati on both my scoots with the ancillaries fed from a battery which is charged via the DC stator output I’ve fused input and output from the battery
The battery keeps the phone and satnav going when the engine is off, when the engine is running it charges the battery and feeds the ancillaries

I should add that my cable comes in through a hole drilled in the legshield into the toolbox

A solution for you could be running the cable behind the horncast, and trim the horncast rubber beading to allow the cable to egress at the top just under the bolt bulge

Another alternative that instead of a battery is to use a large capacity USB power bank - this will easily power a sat nav all day ( about £30 from PC World) -. You can charge it up from the mains at night

https://www.currys.co.uk/products/belki ... =powerbank

I have wired all three of my Tom Toms to the lighting circuit. The Red GP has no battery. With this, I have found that I need to charge the Tom Tom overnight for it to work all day.

With both Series 3, I have drilled holes in the legshields and fed the wiring up into the headset. There is no need to drill a hole with a Series 2 as you can feed a cable in alongside the headset clamp bolt.

All the ball connectors are from TD Customs in Germany. You can get them from SIP.

Thankyou both

I’ve ordered an ac vape regulator with the additional dc output

Looking like a cable exit hole via the legshields per your grey series three Paul, but I’m open to any other suggestions. And we’ll talk this through at our next club night undoubtedly..We know how to party

And finally yes I have one of the mounts from TD customs, Germany. A very neat solution.

I've progressed this a bit now following feedback

I've decided to drill a 10mm hole in the legshields behind the horn-casing to allow the power cable for the satnav to exit via a grommet
The cable exit will be obscured by a spare wheel holder to a certain degree



Here's a couple of pictures of the satnav mount I'm using





The power cable connects to a TomTom Rider quick release mount this this
You can get a security device to save the satnav getting pinched when you're away from your scoot paying for petrol etc..



I was originally planning on using a DC trickle feed off the regulator to power/charge the satnav internal battery. However for fear of damaging the satnav at low revs when voltage fluctuates up and down I've decided to use a small battery using the DC trickle feed to top up the battery whilst the battery provides a stable voltage to the satnav.

Cambridge Lambretta do a small battery tray which mounts to the left hand rear runner leg using existing holes



Here's the battery powering the satnav so you can see the size and fitting
The regulator is not connected in this picture and the fuse is on the negative leg the same as my GP200. I have since changed the fuse to the positive side of the battery.





My plan is to use a three way connector same as this to connect the regulator DC output to the battery +ve and the satnav

Neat idea & was thinking of a similar set up with a Li Ion battery and my existing tray unit..

I dont want to hijack this thread but this might be of use. I set up a battery to run indicators and a rear view cam. The battery was charged off a regulator with the extra terminals for a battery. Things went ok until after a ride the battery was down to 10 volts, although everything ran with the engine running. I plugged the battery in to my charger which said it was defective. this was after its first run out. Any ideas ?

Here are some general suggestions

Check integrity of you wiring - check for loose connections, poorly made crimps. Pay lots of attention to your earth connections

Battery maybe defective - swap for a known good battery

Don't assume your battery charger is working correctly - I had a number of issues with battery's running flat prematurely, with associated head scratching. Once I invested in a good quality battery charger the issues went away. If you’re after a suggestion I recommend a CTEK MXS 5.0 which can look after batteries from my VW camper, the Wife's Vespa, to the small battery I'm using in this application
The CTEK can recondition older batteries and resurrect “dead” batteries that have been overly discharged.

Good luck!

jonno wrote:I dont want to hijack this thread but this might be of use. I set up a battery to run indicators and a rear view cam. The battery was charged off a regulator with the extra terminals for a battery. Things went ok until after a ride the battery was down to 10 volts, although everything ran with the engine running. I plugged the battery in to my charger which said it was defective. this was after its first run out. Any ideas ?

What was the voltage across the battery terminals with the motor running?

It was a new battery, and was charging when running. I'm beginning to thing the cam pulling more than I thought it would, and the charging isn't enough, though everything worked with the engine running and the battery was 10v after I switched off the engine.