LCGB Forums

While stripping my engine for a rebuild one of the little bolts holding down the plate snapped and the bolt remained in the hole. No amount if heat or drilling a pilot hole helped so long story short the holes goosed
Question one.. Ive not removed the fan/mag housing yet so does the hole go all the way into the case (its the hole closest to the the engine mount?)
Question two.. Will i just be able to tap it to a larger size or is the mag flange a right off.
Typical it was the only bolt so far to give me any trouble.

I assume you mean the little plate with 2 screws in it where the stator wires emerge from.

Have to drill it out I'm afraid.

No way is it a write off. Drill it out and clean hole with a tap.

Worst case you'll have to helicoil it.

If it's a write off, can I have it please?

Ask a friendly Electrician if ya can borrow his M20 conduit tap and just tap the big hole.
Go to any electrical merchants and buy an M20 brass cable gland. Some gland rubbers have different sized holes. Just use best judgement.
Its a great fix and makes it much easier to remove the stator plate in future.
Job done.

Fast n Furious wrote:Ask a friendly Electrician if ya can borrow his M20 conduit tap and just tap the big hole.
Go to any electrical merchants and buy an M20 brass cable gland. Some gland rubbers have different sized holes. Just use best judgement.
Its a great fix and makes it much easier to remove the stator plate in future.
Job done.

That's a new one on me! It sounds like an excellent solution, especially if you combine the gland fittings with those decent earth tags. I'm always drilling & tapping the back of mag housings for a decent earth.......

Fast n Furious wrote:Ask a friendly Electrician if ya can borrow his M20 conduit tap and just tap the big hole.
Go to any electrical merchants and buy an M20 brass cable gland. Some gland rubbers have different sized holes. Just use best judgement.
Its a great fix and makes it much easier to remove the stator plate in future.
Job done.

Brilliant idea !

A new M20 x 1.5mm pitch tap is about £25.00

don't forget the dodge of mig welding the broken screw stub up and grabbing that with mole grips . the heat really helps.
the conduit thread idea is great.
Centre punching and brand new sharp metal drills are the key to drilling out and a battery drill for better control. 2mm or 2.5mm from wilko.

Never use hammer action on anything other than masonry or bricks, the reason I say is many people not of a trade background use it for everything. my son in laws dad was cheerfully using the hammer drill action with wood bits fitting loft boards. He didn't have many drills left and was miffed I wouldn't give him any of mine.
steel jobber drills are very brittle all the way up the flutes and will break easily. Masonary drills are soft and not brittle the extremely hard bit is the tungsten tip which is brazed on. Cheap chinese taps and dies are fine, everything is made in china so they make an awful lot of tooling for the home market.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M20-x-1-5-2- ... fresh=true

Cheers folks the conduit sounds like a plan, thanks again.

I found an interesting tap set on Fleabay:-


114pc Oil Pan Thread Repair Kit Sump Gearbox Drain Plug Tool Set

M13 x 1.25, M13 x 1.5, M15 x 1.5, M17 x 1.5,
M20 x 1.5, M22 x 1.5mm

£28 delivered.