Fitting a TS1 Kit

With thanks to A F Rayspeed for allowing us to re-produce this article.

Fitting Instructions for the Aluminium Performance Kit 200/225

Now that you are the owner of the most advanced engine kit ever designed for the Lambretta, please read and follow the instructions listed below, so that the future will hold thousands of trouble free scootering miles. Due to the nature of the kit and it's intended use, NO guarantee can be given to the kit against wrong assembly of the kit, incorrect petrol oil mixture, incorrect timing, general abuse in driving causing excessive wear and tear to the kit, or any other part in the engine that fails causing damage to the kit.

The Kit Consists of: - Cylinder, piston complete, reed valve assembly, inlet manifold, inlet and exhaust gaskets, four inlet manifold bolts and two exhaust studs.
Prior to assembly of the kit
1. If your machine is losing oil through the main oil seals, or if your main oil seals are worn in any way please replace.

2. Check crankshaft and con-rod / big end for smooth operation and any play. Replace con-rod assembly if in any doubt. Preferably fit a race crank.

3. Remove battery tray, if your machine is fitted with one, and reposition on the opposite side of the frame slightly higher up, so as not to obstruct the petrol tap operation.

Assembly of kit

1. Take the new cylinder base gasket, trim to suit the base of the cylinder, so that it causes no obstruction to the transfer ports. Lightly grease and fit to neck of crankcase.

2. Fit piston complete, making sure he arrow on the crown of the piston points towards the exhaust port.

3. Fit new alloy cylinder on to the engine, take care not to damage the piston or rings, check to make sure the cylinder is sitting down flat on the base gasket. If there is any resistance then the transfer cutaway in the Magneto Flange may be catching on the neck of the cylinder. Remove the necessary metal from the magneto flange until no obstruction is felt. Fit GT head gasket and secure the cylinder head to a torque setting of 23 ft.lbs. If you are fitting a skimmed head please ensure that it has been opened out to the correct diameter. 67mm for a 200cc and 71 for a 225cc.

4. Grease lightly the lower reed valve gasket, and fit to the reed valve assembly. Check bolts holding petal stops are tight. Fit the reed valve assembly into the inlet tract, taking care not to damage the petals. Lightly grease the top gasket and loosely fit the inlet manifold to the cylinder. One of the reed valve locating bolts is machined down make sure this bolt is positioned nearest the base of the cylinder. Fit the rear damper and make sure there is sufficient clearance of approximately 2mm between frame and inlet manifold, and the rear bolt of the manifold. The clearance varies depending on the type of rear suspension fitted. If there is not sufficient clearance or you cannot lift the frame up enough to fit the rear suspension unit, then check to see where it is fouling, and remove the necessary metal from either the manifold, the bolt or frame so that a 1-2mm clearance is obtained. Secure the inlet manifold evenly do not over tighten. Fit exhaust studs preferably with loctite.

5. Loosely offer up the cowling, mark around the cowling the inlet manifold position and cut the cowling to suit. Fit the cowling and exhaust. Proceed as normal for the complete engine assembly. You will require a piece of petrol pipe approx. 18'' in length. Thread the pipe under the frame, across the head cowling to the carburettor.


Run the machine using a Champion N87, N3 or NDW24 ESZU plug, or equivalent from another manufacturer. Use a petrol to oil mixture of 24 : 1 (1/3 of a pint of oil to 1 gallon of fuel). Always use Super Plus Unleaded if the head has been skimmed. Regular 95 RON unleaded should be okay with a standard head.


Amal 30mm to 34mm non-power jet carbs are suitable for both the T.S.1 200 and 225 kits. Approx. settings are as follows, but this will vary depending on the silencer (expansion) system fitted.

Amal 30mm = Slide No. 3, 3½, or 4. (Shallow Float).

Needle clip position 2nd notch from the top.

2D1 Needle, 107 needle Jet.

Pilot jet 35, Main Jet 300 to 320 approx.

Mixture screw ½ turn out.

Amal 34mm = Same as above but main jet 320 to 360.

Dell'OrtoVHSB 34LD = Oval Bore to 36mm

Slide - standard

Needle K21 or K24

Needle jet (atomiser) DQ266 / DP266

Main Jet 160 to 175 Pilot Jet 45 to 55.

Float Valve 300 Choke Jet 50

Silencer and Expansion System

Originally the T.S.1 kit was based around the fresco, but these are no longer available. There are many good expansion systems on the market that compliment and get the maximum performance out of the T.S.1 kit. Remember the expansion system is a critical part, so choose wisely, because fitting a system that is not suitable can damage your engine, apart from loosing performance. Also you may have to change your gear ratio's to suit your expansion. The TS1 kit is designed for high r.p.m. and with the correct gearing, silencer and race crank, 10,000 r.p.m. is well within the safety margin. The Gearing must be correct for the silencer for optimum performance e.g. when the fresco was available, straight SX gearing or G.P.200 with 19 tooth front sprocket and 46 crown wheel (4.80 ratio in 4th gear) was best. With our N.K. expansion a 4th gear ratio of 5.20 is best i.e. Straight G.P.200 gearing with original sprockets.

Running in

Run the engine kit in for 100 miles not exceeding 55 m.p.h. then the remaining 250 miles at speeds not exceeding 75 m.p.h.

Fault finding

Starting problems, erratic tick over, excessive fuel consumption, excessive spitting of fuel out of the carburettor and general bad running, all usually point to worn reed petals or excessive ring wear. After a period of time the read petals may feather on the end. Replace as necessary.