SIL GP 200 - What to expect?

[LambrettaMarky]

I'm trying to manage my own expectations really by understanding what I can expect from a relatively standard SIL GP 200.

This scoot was newly rebuilt in 2016 & marketed by Rayspeed. Since then it has sat in a garage pretty much unused and as I have started to work on it and look inside it is all as described, in that it's well put together with the correct fixings nicely to length, gaskets and components again all look new as do the motor internals. Body work is spot on which to me is the one area I'm not comfortable working on, so that was a must have.

Since getting this GP, I have done the following:

• Jetex carb replaced with Scootopia Del Orto 22mm carb with 120 main jet
• Fast Flow rear exit fuel tap
• Standard air box replaced with new elbow & Foam air filter
• Timing set to 17 degrees BTDC
• Reverse Pull Front Brake
• New clutch friction plates
• Motor is all as new so I'm running 25:1 mineral 2t to help it bed in
• Exhaust is AF Rayspeed Clubman
• Changed the headlight electrical connection assembly & bulb to Halogen as original was more cracks than material
• Replaced the speedo assembly & cable due to original being all cracked when I disassembled the front end to put the reverse pull cable in
• Fitted M6 Penny washers to the front damper mounts to stop the damper slider off the mount!
• Fitted RT Welding tray & auxiliary 1.3Ltr ally bottle

Essentially before I changed the carb & the timing it would get to around 50mph sluggishly and that was it. The carb, intake and timing changes have really pepped it up so it now will get to 60 ish although I'm running in still, so the motor does feel a little tight still. It may well rev up better once bedded in with a few hundred more miles on it. The front brake again was all new & I think the pads could do with changing for some sintered ones perhaps - will pop along to Cambridge Lambretta to get some, but the reverse pull saves me dragging my toes to stop now.

What should I realistically expect from a standard ish motor? If feels quite happy sat @ 60 & that will only improve with miles - maybe even mid 60's are on the cards..

I'm riding to the Marlow rally in August which is ~ 100 miles, but if that goes well would like to go farther afield to rallies with IOW 25 already in the diary. Most likely I will opt for a Monza 225 kit with matching carb, timing, pipe etc over the winter so I don't want to do too much more to the standard motor now unless there is something quick n easy that's recommended here..

Appreciate any similar experiences & words of wisdom from those more knowledgeable than me..

Cheers.

7th May 14.6 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

[LambrettaMarky]

Few more pics:

Scootopia Del Orto 22mm by KTM Marky, on Flickr

RT Tray by KTM Marky, on Flickr

2nd June 24 1 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

02.06.24.5 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

As you can see from the plug it's safely unlean (last few miles were in town before I chopped the plug), so when on WOT it's 'safe'..

[LambrettaMarky]

Clutch cable needed a sleeve to fit correctly and the housing needed opening up for the wider reverse pull cable:
Clutch Cable Spacer by KTM Marky, on Flickr

Clutch Cable Spacer 1 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

Clutch Cable Spacer 2 by KTM Marky, on Flickr

Clutch Cable Seat by KTM Marky, on Flickr

Front Brake by KTM Marky, on Flickr

Front Brake Vent by KTM Marky, on Flickr

The front brake vent was more materil than vent, so I cleaned these out. i guess these are the differences between Italin & Indian quality..

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

That looks a very nice scooter & I hope you enjoy riding it as well as getting to grips with the mechanics of it, as you are obviously capable of & keen to do.

As far as I am aware, the Indians never produced a version of the OEM Campaigning in board disc. Presuming that hour's is a pattern of the original, you should check what actuator you have. The superiority of the OEM version has been covered on this Forum so that should help you.

As for the changes you have made thus far, my comments would be:


• Jetex carb replaced with Scootopia Del Orto 22mm carb with 120 main jet That sounds about right. I hope that prior to fitting you stripped the carburetor down & checked out all the jets & passages were clear & clean. I have no reason to doubt Scootopia's product quality, but the days of inspection of goods prior to sale have long gone.

• Fast Flow rear exit fuel tap, As above in so much as even a fuel tap should be checked IMO.

• Standard air box replaced with new elbow & Foam air filter. The standard air box breathes in cool air, not warm air from under the panels. The OEM filter should prove adequate for your current needs.

• Timing set to 17 degrees BTDC. Whilst current fuels are not as high in terms of octane rating as when the engine was conceived, with a standardise motor, 19 DBTDC should be enough. I would give it a try as it can make for a more sparkling performance.

• Reverse Pull Front Brake. A must IMO

• New clutch friction plates. If they were necessary, so be it. Be aware that some Indian components will actually distort in use, rather like a spring. You need to bear this in mind if you intend to raise the torque of your engine @ a later date.

• Motor is all as new so I'm running 25:1 mineral 2t to help it bed in. I hesitate to comment as oil is a contentious issue. Personally, I believe the best oils are synthetic & it's worth the effort in researching two stroke specific Forums, selecting an oil & sticking with it & the mix ratio. It's a common mistake to add more oil during running in which weakens the mixture.....

• Exhaust is AF Rayspeed Clubman. IMO adequate for your current needs.

• Changed the headlight electrical connection assembly & bulb to Halogen as original was more cracks than material. I hope that made for a better light.

• Replaced the speedo assembly & cable due to original being all cracked when I disassembled the front end to put the reverse pull cable in. No comment.

• Fitted M6 Penny washers to the front damper mounts to stop the damper slider off the mount!.It is a cure but aesthetically?

• Fitted RT Welding tray & auxiliary 1.3Ltr ally bottle. No comment.

I think that you've done well with the choice of scooter. It looks 'box fresh' though I hope you have good modern tyres.

I would suggest you check out the crankshaft & bearings @ some stage, especially if you plan to increase the performance. There are a lot of kits to choose from & Sticky's book is invaluable in making that selection.

Don't just follow the herd! Whatever your choice - & I never thought I'd be saying this(!) - your scooter is very clean & it can stay that way even with a good, air filter friendly bigger carburetor. That may sound contradictory to my earlier advice, as TBH, I have had to run 30 mm + PWK's through filters beneath the panels. However, that's entirely due to the fact that I have yet to develop a specific air box to suit the frame. Hopefully, somebody will beat me to it, but it won't simply be a modified OEM type.....

Good Luck!

[dickie]

Wise words from WT1. What he says about the front brake is close to my heart. Those pattern actuators are awful and would be very difficult to modify to make like OEM. Start looking about for an original one.

It's also worth checking out Darrell Taylor's excellent 'bang for buck' series that he did a few years back in scootering magazine. I think it's still available on line for free, but if not, PM me. It addresses the shortcomings of indian GP200 build quality and makes a big difference.

[hullygully]

make sure the disc is free on the three studs & defo find some sintered disc pads, make sure these are free in their positions

[LambrettaMarky]

Thanks folks for the advice which is much appreciated.

I will pop along to Cambridge Lambretta and ask about the front brake actuator & pads - very good to know!

Carb was indeed stripped and all jets blown out - seems fine & I also checked the fuel tap prior to fitting. The OE was was an intermittent dribble when 'ON' & this is way better.

I have kept the air scoop under the seat, but the OE filter was naff although I get your point about warm air. I plan to fit a mid/long range tank when I upgrade the motor so the airbox was going anyway.

Timing was at ~23 BTDC & I tried it @ 19, now 17 as per a recommendation from Cam' Lam' where the motor seems more ready to rev.

The scoot had sat unused since 2016 & the clutch pack was almost fused together, but new friction plates have it working fine now.

25:1 or 4% is the norm I understand, so will go back to synthetic with 500 miles on the motor.

The M6 Penny washers are SS & look fine with the bonus that the dampers stay put now too.

Tyres are Continentals and seem pretty OK - again they have no mileage in them but feel OK compound wise. I've a spare the same & will re-fit the rack for any rally outings with it fitted.. Not that I know how to change a wheel yet mind!

I have Sticky's books and will for sure upgrade the motor as appropriate with the Monza kit from Cam Lam.

Thanks again!

[Storkfoot]

I’d be concerned by your clutch cable sleeve. Will it not, potentially, cut into the actual cable when you pull the clutch? Or, is the sleeve designed to move? Is it greased?

I don’t mean to be negative. I like your thinking but maybe all it needs is grease.

[LambrettaMarky]

I greased it on assembly into the bike and it's relatively soft aluminium in comparison to the cable strands. It's free to turn with the cable & just takes the diameter up to remove the play being a clearance fit.

[Micky67keane]

Hi mate,really like the look of that tray,what is it and where can I get one.Cheers

[LambrettaMarky]

Hi mate,really like the look of that tray,what is it and where can I get one.Cheers

RT Welding & Fabrication
Isle Of Wight

FB page then messenger best. Very good quality and a please to deal with.